Q: How much will this actually cool my house?
A: Given the variables inherent in house designs, it is impossible to provide precise guidance on what will happen to indoor room temperatures, however we do know that roof space temperatures can rise as high as 70°C, and vents can easily reduce this by 20-30°C, thereby reducing the heat loads on your ceiling insulation and any air conditioning ducts running through the roof space.
Q: What happens if there is no wind, do they still work?
A: If the air in the roof is hotter than the ambient air outside, then the vent will allow that air to escape and help reduce the attic temperature.
Q: Can they be installed on both metal and tiled roofs?
A: The flashing supplied is suitable for use on both metal and tiled roofs, and the instructions make the different steps clear.
Q: How many vents do I need?
A: We recommend that one vent be installed for every 90m2 of roof space. It is also important to remember then to allow the air to be replaced from somewhere, and so we recommend 4 soffit vents per roof vent, and ideally one internal ceiling grille, to allow any hot trapped air to escape from inside your home.
Q: How do rotary ventilators work?
A: In the first instance they allow hot air to escape from your roof – this is irrespective of prevailing wind. Once there is wind as well, then they help extract the air from your roof space. All of this is based on pressure differentials, either caused by temperature differences, or wind.
Q: How much do the vents cost to run?
A: Supavents and Whirlybirds cost nothing to run.
Q: Do the vents need to be professionally installed?
A: All of our domestic range is despatched with detailed installation instructions and can be installed by the average home handy man.
Q: What if I don't want lots of vents on my roof?
A: The Supavent is the ideal product for larger homes and is aesthetically pleasing. It is also available in various colours to match your roof.
Q: Will the vents make my house look like a factory?
A: The Supavent is much less obvious on the roof. We also suggest that if vents are positioned just below the ridge line on the rear of the house, where possible, they will not be noticeable from the street.
Q: Are the vents noisy?
Our domestic range all have a bearing system that are designed to be completely silent, each bearing being self-lubricating and require no maintenance.
Q: Supavent – isn't that made of plastic?
A: The Supavent is manufactured from Engineering ASA polymers (Acrylonitrile Styrene & Acrylate). It is extremely strong and has been independently tested to withstand wind speeds in excess of 216 km/h.
Houses are built much "tighter" today than they were 20 or 30 years ago. Windows are more efficient, house wraps are now commonly used, and the R value of insulation has increased. Overall, our homes are more air-tight. In doing this, we trap the moisture in the home. Indoor moisture is generated by many things. The normal perspiration and breathing of a family of four adds about ½ litre of water to the air every hour. Cooking three meals a day adds four or five pints of water to the air. Each shower contributes up to ½ litre of water. In fact, every activity that uses water, (like dishwashing, mopping floors, doing laundry) adds moisture to the air. Experts say that the daily living activities of a family of four can add up to 60 litres of water a week into the air of a home. Air moisture will flow toward drier air to equalize itself. This equalization process actually forces the indoor moisture through the ceiling and insulation into the attic area.
In attics which are not properly vented, moisture is also created by simple condensation. The air inside an improperly vented attic will be warmer than the air outside. When this warmer, moist air comes in contact with the colder roof sheeting and condensation will occur. In effect, it can actually "rain" in your attic.
Q: Can I over ventilate my attic?
A: The ideal ventilation system maintains the same temperature in your attic as outside or at least within 10 degrees. Minimum property standards and codes were developed in 1948. These codes were set as minimums based solely on the attic floor space. Due to the many variables in construction (roof pitches, roof color, ceiling designs), you may need to increase the amount of ventilation. Also, minimum standards may not provide equality between intake and exhaust ventilation. Just remember if you increase the amount of exhaust ventilation – you must have an equal amount of intake. If either part of the system is unbalanced, it is better to have more intake.
Q: What is net free area (NFA)?
A: Net free area is the standard of measurement used by our industry. It is the unobstructed area of a ventilator through which air may flow. The louvered section and screening hinder the air flow and their net free area is lessened by their measurements.
Q: What is the difference between an intake and exhaust vent?
A: The most important difference in an intake and exhaust vent is their location on the roof. All exhaust type ventilators are to be installed on the upper 1/3 portion of the attic area. Intake vents are generally installed in the under-eave/ overhang or fascia area.
Note: Sometimes, due to the lack of overhang-under-eave area, roof louvers are installed low on the roof and used as intake. We DO NOT recommend this due to the possibility of weather infiltration.
Q: Which exhaust ventilation product is most effective?
A: Ventilation products are part of a system of intake and exhaust ventilators. As long as the proper number of vents are used and the system is balanced, (50% exhaust and 50% intake), ridge vents, roof louvers, whirlybirds or power ventilators will be equally effective. However, the design of the product does make a difference in its long term effectiveness.
Q: How does a ventilator's design make a difference in its long term effectiveness?
A: We incorporate the "Supa Vent Balance", which simply means you get the maximum ventilating capacity and the best weather protection available. Let's examine how this is achieved:
Ridge Vents: For a ridge vent to work it must have an exterior baffle. Once the wind hits the baffle it will create a low-pressure area around the ridge vent and pull air from the attic. Lomanco Omni Ridge shingle over ridge incorporates an exterior baffle the full length of the ridge vent plus patented Omni baffles utilize the winds when parallel to ridge vent.
Whirlybirds®: Any ventilator with moving parts must provide longevity. The Whirlybird® turbine ventilator is a prime example of a well designed/ engineered product. It's dual ball bearing system and weight load distribution enables Lomanco to offer a Forever Guarantee transferable from homeowner to homeowner. Remember if a turbine is not turning it is not working!!
Q: What are your product warranties?
A: Product warranties vary by type of product – please choose the appropriate product for warranty details.
Q: How do I obtain warranty service?
A: The fastest way to receive service is by contacting the dealer from which the product was obtained. If you are unsure, please contact our customer service department at 0860 COOLER. Please refer to the warranties listed above for specifics.
Q: How do I choose a proper sized ventilation system?
A: Local roofing professionals and Hardware stores can assist you in determining the best ventilation system for your home. Contact Turbo Vent for more information.
Q: How difficult is it to install a ventilator?
A: Most consumers choose to have their ventilation system installed by a professional – cutting a hole in a roof can be intimidating to say the least. However, step by step instructions are provided for your reference.
Q: Should I cover my turbines in the winter?
A: Attic ventilation systems are required year around. Most people associate attic ventilation with heat; however, of the two major destructive forces at work in your attic, moisture, not heat, is the most destructive. Since winter air is drier, it absorbs moisture from your home and you. The attic space is even more susceptible to excessive moisture in the winter. Plus when air is trapped inside the attic – it will always be warmer than the air outside. The roof sheeting/decking will be colder in winter months. Thus creating even more condensation. It can literally "rain" in your attic. This moisture produces mildew, rotting conditions damaging wood members and destroying shingles or it drips down to the ceiling below to damage plaster or paint. Insulation also becomes wet and provides less resistance to heat loss.
Should you have any other questions, please contact us.
